A-lign (Cladding, Concealed Fix and Fencing) - Jenkin

A superior, precision-cut cladding solution that allows builders to easily and quickly install solid timber weatherboard cladding (in traditional nail or Concealed Fix) for classic and contemporary house designs, to the highest traditional craft standards.

Jenkin A-lign® Fencing – the easy way to create a fence with exceptional street appeal. Precision-machined solid timber components with a user-friendly fixing system. Classic. Elegant. Simple. Crafted for enduring performance.

Jenkin primed pine range – guidelines

Product Care

Correct handling, storage, installation, finishing and maintenance of your premium A-lign cladding are essential.

These guidelines will help you protect your investment.


Correct handling of your A-lign starts with its delivery to the building site.

  • Do not tip the weatherboards from a truck. Either use a mechanical lifting device or unload the weatherboards by hand.
  • Do not drag weatherboards across the ground. Always carry individual weatherboards with their long section vertical to avoid excessive bending.
  • Where possible, keep the factory packaging in place while the product is stored on site before it is installed.


Timber weatherboards are hygroscopic (absorb moisture from the atmosphere) and are processed from a kiln-dried resource. Jenkin has strict controls on the moisture content of boards and only dispatches material from the factory in a moisture range of 12% (plus or minus 2%).

  • A-lign must be stored under cover, protected from rain and sun.
  • The product should be placed on a flat, well ventilated surface, a minimum of 150mm clear of the ground or concrete.
  • Where practical A-lign should be stored within a covered building that provides total weather protection.
  • If the product is stored outside, a secondary cover and ground sheet should be used.
  • The weatherboards should be on a firm level base with timber supports at not greater than 900mm centers.

Hide Installation 

The standards for the installation of timber weatherboards for commercial and domestic buildings are NZS 3604 and E2/AS1. It is critical that the builder is familiar with these requirements as well as the specific installation guidelines supplied by Jenkin for the installation of the A-lign system.
The BRANZ publication ‘Good Practice Guide – Timber Cladding’ provides an additional practical guide.

Some of the key installation points include:

  • Board Set-Out – minimum lap requirements must be met. Full details are provided in the A-lign technical manuals.
  • Fixing – Correct nailing and fastening of boards is important. Installers must ensure the appropriate nail size is used e.g 75 x 3.15mm galv/stainless ring shank jolt head. Only one nail should be used at each stud spacing. Do not double nail boards as this will impede the boards natural movement and will likely cause splitting in the board. Do not nail through the lap of the weatherboard. Hand nailing is recommended as some gun fixings may bruise the surface of the board. It is recommended that nails are sloped slightly uphill to avoid water tracking along the length of the nail into the timber. Nails should be punched beneath the surface of the board and should be filled immediately. If nail holes are not filled immediately water penetration around the nail to the board is likely. This will result in board swelling.
  • Ground clearances – At ground level weatherboards should finish at least 100mm above paved surfaces and 175mm above unpaved surfaces.
  • Cut ends – Seal all cut ends / end grain immediately after cutting prior to installation. For ease use Jenkin End Seal primer or two coats of premium timber primer.
  • Joints – Weatherboards should be fixed in full wall lengths where possible. Some manufacturers provide long 7.2m lengths to minimise joints. When unavoidable joints should be made over studs or battens. Scarf the joint at 45 degrees and use a single fixing through the overlapping board. Prime cut ends and cover joint with a soaker if required.
  • External corners – Plain mitred external corners should be avoided. The use of corrosion resistant soakers is preferable. When using boxed corners use the appropriate scriber system. As with cut ends / end grain all scribers should be pre-coated to ensure weather protection. The use of a factory cut pre-primed scriber system is recommended for accuracy and ease of use.
  • Internal corners – Corrosion resistant flashings should be fitted behind the weatherboards at all internal corners.
  • Windows and Doors – Junctions at the interface between the cladding system such as window and door openings are vital for weather-tightness. Care must be taken to ensure that the work is carried out correctly and that all flashings, weatherings and air seals are in place.

Hide Painting and Finishing 

Weatherboards should be painted and finished in accordance with ‘AS / NZS 2311:2000 – Guide to the Painting of Buildings’. Professional painters should have a copy of this standard and be familiar with it. In addition to the above standard, weatherboard manufacturers painting instructions should also be carefully followed. These instructions are normally indicated by a sticker placed on the back each weatherboard and are expanded on in individual company literature.
Weatherboards should be painted only when dry and when the board is near Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC <16%). If there is doubt over the readiness of the board to be painted use a correctly calibrated moisture meter to measure board moisture content. Board size dimensions should also be checked. If the board is larger than its factory machined dimensions the board is likely to have taken on moisture and must be allowed to dry out. Failure to let the board return to factory machined sizes may result in shrinkage lap marks between the boards affecting overall aesthetics.
If there is any doubt over the condition of the weatherboard prior to painting contact the manufacturer.
Critical areas for painting include:

  • Preparation – Remove all loose material, dirt etc from the board surface. Spot prime exposed bare and damaged areas with premium oil based timber primer. If not already done, all nail holes should be filled with filler nominated as exterior type suitable for overcoating with acrylic paints. Lightly sand the surface where necessary to an even flat finish. If primer has been exposed to the weather for longer than six weeks you should consult your weatherboard manufacturer for additional painting advice.
  • Cut Ends – During installation seal all cut ends with an oil alkyd primer sealer. Jenkin End Seal, an aerosol spray that combines a treatment and primer is available. This easy to apply system seals the ends of all cut surfaces. The aerosol Jenkin end seal has also been BRANZ Appraised.
  • Priming – Jenkin A-lign is a dual coat system and offers time and labour savings in the painting process. No extra priming is required.
  • Final Coats – Two premium acrylic top coats of low gloss level should be applied to the boards. If following paint manufacturers instructions each coat should be applied at a minimum of 25 dry microns per coat. It is recommended that finished boards have a paint system total film build including primers that exceeds 100 dry microns. Good level paint film build offers superior weather protection, reduced maintenance, greater paint system longevity and aesthetic benefits.
  • Colour – Dark colours should be avoided. They absorb heat from the sun and increase the risk of board defects. For best performance select colours in a range of 45% Light Reflective Value (LRV) or greater, there are over 1,000 colour options available in this range, a selection of these are shown below.

Routine maintenance is required as is regular washing of the exterior surface. Washing especially under eaves and overhangs helps remove marine salts and other contaminants that have a detrimental effect on the long term life of the coating and substrate. A gentle wash (not water blast) at least annually should be conducted.
When maintenance is required use premium primer and undercoats followed by the original topcoat. Paint system longevity depends largely on the environment and quality of the original paint system. A quality paint system should last in excess of 10 years

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